The Story of the Kappie

The iconic headdress known as the “kappie,” with its practicality, exceptional uniqueness, and aesthetic appeal, is an undeniable part of South African heritage. “Kappies” (sunbonnets) – which are heritage headdresses worn by women and girls are part of The Story of Emily in the War Rooms.

When visiting us, you will notice them throughout the experience: in the Boer kitchen before the war, during the war, in the exhibits, in historical pictures, and even when you view the virtual reality experience. 

It was an essential part of a woman’s outfit and for a good reason.

In South Africa's scorching sun and heat, pioneer* women and girls who spent much time outdoors had to protect their faces and necks against the unforgiving sunlight. The kappie with its wide brim, neck frill, and strings - so that it wouldn’t blow off in the wind - was exactly suitable for this purpose. Even babies wore tiny kappies.

Most of these were made of layers of white cotton or linen material, resembling French whitework embroidery of the 17th and 18th centuries. This influence is a testament to the rich heritage of the Afrikaner people, who are a mix of European and local peoples. The kappie is an adaptation of earlier styles; 17th-century white linen sunbonnets worn in Europe, particularly in Holland. Although this style died out in Europe, it remained in South Africa, where it continues to be a symbol of their unique heritage.

These items have a unique and deeply significant story. They have not only served a practical purpose but have also been transformed into a part of history, carrying with them the narratives of the people who wore them.

When the British took control of the Cape Colony in 1806, tensions started to build between them and the Afrikaners, or Boers, who wanted to be independent. Eventually, they left in a series of migrations in different groups to the North. They became known as the Voortrekkers, or pioneers.

When they left the Cape, the Voortrekkers were wearing the fashionable styles of the time. Because of distance and poor communication, these styles lagged behind what was considered current in Europe.

According to Lucille Chaveas, an expert in quilting, the white, quilted, and corded kappie was one of the most distinctive articles of clothing made and worn by the Voortrekker women.

A Voortrekkerkappie, War Museum, Bloemfontein, South Africa

What makes the white kappies so remarkable and precious are the designs worked on the extremely fine quilting and cording, done entirely by hand.

The material used was usually white or light-coloured linen or cotton purchased from shops in the Eastern Cape or travelling salesmen; the Voortrekker women did not weave their own cloth.

Another popular style was known as the kiskappie or formal bonnet. Older women wore these which were sometimes exact copies of fashionable bonnets in Europe.

Kiskappies were made of coloured fabrics, plain or striped, and silk or shot silk was commonly used. Because this material could not be washed and starched, the bonnet was constructed and decorated differently from the white kappie. Without starch to support it, the coloured kappie needed considerable body to keep the stiff shape of the brim. It was padded with wadding or flannel and even thick paper was sometimes used between the layers, writes Chaveas.

The kappies changed when the sewing machine became available in the mid 1850’s in South Africa.

During the late Victorian era (circa 1890-1901), the so-called Boerekappie or sloopkappie (pillowcase sunbonnet) came to the fore. This kappie was worn by women in the British concentration camps during the Anglo Boer War, writes Dr Vicky Heunis from the Boer War Museum in South Africa.

A traditional black sloopkappie, War Museum, Bloemfontein, South Africa

The Victorian predilection for the colour black caused older women to prefer black kappies or satin kappies, which were often covered with a layer of mourning crepe as a sign of grieving.

When fully unfolded, the sloopkappie resembled a half circle and looked like a pillowcase, hence its name. However, the women still quilted beautifully on it.

In the War Rooms at the Story of Emily, we have an original mourning dress and a kappie worn by Jacoba Johanna Hattingh after her son Dewald Lambertus (3) died in the Volksrust concentration camp, in February 1902.

It is accompanied by a signed funeral letter: Relatives and friends are hereby notified that the God of Heaven and Earth has seen fit to take from our side our tender beloved son Dewald Lambertus, at the age of 3 years, 1 month, 6 days, after an illness of only 12 days, who passed away on Wednesday the 5th of this month. However heavy and bitter this loss is for us, we will remain silent and say, “What the Lord does is done, to him be the glory”. The grieving parents and relatives.

Sources:

1.  South African Quilters’ Guild. https://www.quiltsouthafrica.co.za/9-34-quilted-cream-kappie-with-leaf-pattern

2.  Hartskombuis – Boerekos van die Anglo-Boereoorlog tot Vandag. 2016. Vicky Heunis.

3.  The Quilt Journal. Lucille Chaveas. Volume 4. Number 1. 1995